Product Development & Formulations for Personal Care Science
This course is intended to be a follow-on for students who have taken the Fundamental course or who have prior work experience in the personal care industry. It is divided into two main cosmetic categories: - “rinse-off and leave-on” products. Hands-on projects will enable the students to practically apply cosmetic science into the formulation of many products adopting the mindset of the cosmetic science formulator, not the empirical formulator.
The course will discuss key raw materials, main technologies, and the composition of a large number of products. It will follow the steps of the development process of a cosmetic product from the selection of the raw materials to composition reasoning, preparation on the bench, specifications, stability testing, etc. There will be hands-on training on sensorial assessment of skin care products, and hydration measurements using electrical impedance.
The course will also provide valuable knowledge to develop and formulate products outside of the ones studied.
Week 1 – Introduction, Technical and Market Reviews – Market categories and product display. Overview of key technologies and leading products. Consumer research and evaluation. Past, present and future of cosmetics. On-hand sensorial training of model skin care products.
PART 1: Rinse-Off Products (Weeks 2 to 6)
Week 2 – Materials - Surfactants, non-surfactants and adjuvants. Effect of physical-chemistry of surfactants on properties and applications. Synergistic and antagonistic interactions. Commodity surfactants for mass market products. Specialty surfactants for specialized/prestige cleansers.
Week 3 – Technologies - Sensoriality via mixed micelles. Mildness via the Mannheimer effect. Skin and hair deposition via the Lochhead effect. Hydration via structured systems. Key patents. Biodegradation, 1,4-Dioxane and environmental issues.
Week 4 – Formulations - Body washes (from basic to skin benefiting), shampoos (from basic to hair benefiting, anti-dandruff, baby, etc.), hand soaps, facial cleansers, makeup removers, etc. FDA controlled products.
Weeks 5,6 – Formulations - Adjustments, preservation, specifications, and sensorial/performance evaluation
PART 2: Leave-On Products (Weeks 7 to 14)
Week 7 – Emollients (carbon and silicone based).The physical and chemical structure as key for sensoriality, compatibility and stability. Hands-on sensorial assessment
Week 8 – Emulsifiers (anionic, nonionic, crypto-anionic, discrete and oligomeric. Physical chemistry for emulsifiers selection. Pairing of emollients and emulsifiers based on structural symmetries.
Week 9 – Emulsion as the Fundamental Cosmetic Vehicle - Uniqueness of cosmetic emulsions. Selection of emulsifiers beyond the limited HLB system. Hydration from emulsions. Hands-on training on hydration measurements.
Week 10 – Formulations - Creams and lotions (emulsions) Controlling emulsions texture and sensoriality via the emulsifier and structuring agent. Physical and chemical stability.
Week 11 – Formulations - Non-emulsion products (solutions, dispersions, gels, soft solids, and solids).
Week 12 – Formulations - Adjustments, preservation, specifications, stability testing, and sensorial/performance evaluation.
Week 13– “Intelligent” Skin Care (Technology and Formulations) - Delivery of active ingredients via solutions, emulsions, micro and nano-emulsions. The Weicher’s equations for delivery of actives.
Week 14 – Color Cosmetics - Main products, materials and technologies. Color-skin care hybrids. Beyond color appeal. Hands-on make-up training.
Week 15 – Project Presentations
Non-Credit Option: This course is also available for non-credit registration for those in the Personal Care Industry. If you are interested in taking this course on a non-credit basis --- Please see here for the registration