The Rutgers Professional Science Master’s (PSM) program strives to provide students with current and relevant industry knowledge. The November 28th “Careers in Cosmetic Chemistry: A Panel Discussion” definitely accomplished that goal. This online event was co-hosted by the Rutgers PSM program and the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC), the premier professional association for the cosmetics and personal care sector in the New York tri-state area. The Rutgers PSM program is well-positioned to co-sponsor this event because it is the only program in the nation to offer an interdisciplinary professional science master’s degree in personal care science that includes a curriculum that intertwines business with science subject matter.
Assistant Professor of Professional Practice and Rutgers PSM Program Life Sciences Curriculum Coordinator, Beth Ann Murphy, Ph.D., served as both the master of ceremonies and moderator. The panel of accomplished personal care professionals each presented a different current trend in the cosmetics industry. Each showed how the innovative application of science is integral to develop products to address these trends.
Meet the Speakers:
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Dr. Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D., NYSCC Chair, CSO, Nutrafol
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Dr. Tao Zheng, Ph.D., SCC Scientific Committee, Director Makeup Innovation and Material Science, Estee Lauder
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Mythili Nori, NYSCC Scientific Committee, Senior Scientist, BASF
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Toussaint Jordan, NYSCC Scholarship Committee Chair, Brand Manager, Edgewell
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Dr. Sue Feng, Ph.D., CSO, ET Browne
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Stacey House, MBA, NYSCC Chair-Elect, SVP R&D Consumer Beauty, Color and Skin, Coty LATAM
Developing Regional Innovative Products for Consumers Around the World - Sue Feng, Ph.D.
Feng discussed the need to develop innovative products based on different consumer behaviors and preferences, taking into consideration regional differences. Consumer behavior is a key concept in both marketing and developing product innovations, said Feng. She also noted that consumer preferences can differ drastically based on geographic location, which can impact a company’s approach to innovation.
She used top mascaras from around the world as a case study. Globally, consumers can have different lash types, live in different climates, and have different eye shapes. These factors affect mascara formulation and brush shape. Companies study lash biology and topology to create the most desired product for consumers.
These products are the result of a collaboration between research and development, consumer understanding, and marketing teams.
Design Thinking Framework to Drive Innovation – Stacey House, MBA
According to House, innovation can be a product, service, business concept, or strategy that addresses an unmet need. When developing innovative products and technology, she advised raising the question of whether the product is new, and whether it is useful. If a product already exists, consider how you can innovate in that space and create excitement. These questions help innovators decide whether a product is worth pursuing.
When innovating, it is also important to consider the desirability, feasibility, and viability of the solution.
House noted, design thinking can be a cycle. It isn’t always a straight line. Even after launch, innovators must continually monitor product data in the marketplace to optimize the design.
If you are interested in design thinking, consider our Introduction to Product Design course, part of the new Product Design concentration.
Technical Challenges in Cosmetic Product Formulation - Dr. Tao Zheng, Ph.D., MBA
Zheng emphasized the fact that cosmetics are both an art and a science. There is a need for young scientists to join the industry and develop state-of-the-art technology for the next generation of cosmetic products, he said. He discussed three technical challenges in the cosmetic industry that present opportunities for innovation.
- Sunscreen – improving formulation
- Makeup – creating foundation and lipstick that are long-wearing and transfer resistant
- Skin Care - improving encapsulation methods of retinol and finding natural alternatives
Circulatory as an Essential Element in Today’s Design and Communication of Cosmetic Products - Dr. Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D.
Dell’Acqua spoke about sustainability in the cosmetic industry. There is an opportunity for innovation to create models of production that are more sustainable.
Sustainability and social responsibility are becoming hot topics of discussion amongst user experience and product designers as well. Dell’Acqua introduced the idea of the circular model, a business model which minimizes ecological and social costs. Instead of disposing of a product, this model emphasizes restoration and regeneration. He highlighted two products on the market: a refillable mascara and a face wash sold in dissolvable packaging.
In the cosmetic industry, raw materials must also be safe, renewable, and responsible, said Dell’Acqua.
If you are interested in sustainability, Dell’Acqua recommended further reading:
- Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things by Michael Braungart and William McDonough
- Circular Design for Fashion by Ellen MacArthur
MBS also offers a concentration in sustainability. View the sustainability cirriculum.
Science Will Always be Trending - Toussaint Jordan
One trend that has never gone away in the cosmetic industry, said Jordan, is the need for unique, exciting, high-tech ingredients. Jordan highlighted eight ingredient-driven trends that rocked the market using scientific concepts. Here are a few of the trends that she emphasized:
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Bond-Building –Hair care products that use bond-building to repair hair from the inside out.
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Microbiome – Skincare products that feed the microbiome of the skin to keep it balanced, reducing acne and skin sensitivity.
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Destressing – Topical spray that uses destressing ingredients such as lavender oil and magnesium, which may reduce anxiety.
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Quick Fix – Eye cream that instantly reduces wrinkles and provides long-term skincare benefits.
Ingredient Innovation - Mythili Nori
Nori highlighted the role of claims and performance testing when it comes to creating innovative products.
Because so many products launch in the personal care industry each year, said Nori, science and innovation are key tools to set these products apart.
Consumer interest in sustainability has shifted the market towards products with clean, safe, and natural ingredients. Brands must create quality products and clearly communicate the benefits, said Nori. Claims and performance testing is a critical part of this process.
Nori highlighted two award-winning novel ingredients including a plant-derived ingredient which provides skin with intense hydration and has a strong story-telling potential. In this instance, science and innovation came together to create a stand-out product.
For further reading, Nori recommended:
- Discovering Cosmetic Science by Stephen Barton
- Practical Modern Hair Science by Trefor Evans, R. Randall Wickett
- Help! I’m Covered in Adjectives by Theresa Callaghan
- Practical Aspects of Cosmetic Testing by Joachim Fluhr
The night ended with a Q&A session with the audience.
What are the most useful job skills for transitioning from bench scientist to higher positions?
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Communication – As scientists move upwards, work becomes less about doing things themselves and more about planning and communicating effectively with others.
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Serving others – Successful leaders encourage growth in their teammates.
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Collaboration – Leaders must continually learn from and collaborate with others. Leaders recognize that they bring certain skills and knowledge to a team, and they must also learn from others.
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Inclusivity - Lead in a way that’s inclusive. Leadership is an integral part of the MBS degree—we give students the tools to become effective leaders through our core business course Principles of Communication and Leadership.
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